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Avola, cittadina di circa 32.000 abitanti, sorge nella stretta pianura costiera che separa le pendici meridionali degli Iblei dalla costa ionica della Sicilia, in provincia di Siracusa, ed è raggiungibile percorrendo la SS. 115. Città operosa e fiorente nel settore agricolo, con colture di agrumeti, mandorleti e vigneti, e nel terziario, tale da essere considerata tra le più ricche della provincia, ha unito il suo nome a prodotti agricoli di fama mondiale come la pregiata mandorla Scelta o Pizzuta d’Avola e il vitigno denominato Nero d’Avola. Ha dato i natali a uomini illustri come: P. Fedele d’Avola, fra Angelo d’Avola, P. F. Di Maria dell’ordine francescano minore cappuccino, G. Bianca, insigne botanico, G. Gubernale storico, A. Perez, Principe Interlandi di Bellaprima, A. Caia, Suor Beatrice Calvo e T. Di Giorgio, letterati, poeti e latinisti, il Maestro S. Falbo musicista, e altri ancora. Avola è ricca di storia testimoniata dai moltissimi siti archeologici e da vari ritrovamenti di oggetti e monete antiche. Per comodità di esposizione descriveremo prima l’antico sito medievale situato sul Monte Aquilone, quindi accenneremo alle vicende storiche del territorio costiero. Dall’odierna cittadina, salendo verso l’altopiano Ibleo, percorrendo una strada a serpentina per circa 8,5 Km e guardando lungo le pareti del monte, si possono ammirare decine di cavità di varie grandezza, scavate nella roccia, simili ai favi di un’arnia. Le grotte, scavate nel calcare, costituivano parte delle abitazioni e delle cisterne dell’antico borgo di Avola, distrutto dal terremoto del 9 e 11 dicembre 1693, e sono ciò che rimane dopo la realizzazione della strada carrabile, verso la fine dell’800, che ha impedito così definitivamente una visione chiara e leggibile del sito medievale. Il sito del monte Aquilone, limitato da due profonde vallate e unito all’altipiano da uno stretto istimo, fu una fortezza naturale, abitato sin dai tempi più remoti dai Sicani e in seguito dai Siculi. Molti storici ipotizzano in questo luogo la mitica Hybla Major citata da Tucidide. Testimonianza della antica presenza dell’uomo è la necropoli sicula con tombe a forno, che ammiriamo lungo le pareti del Cozzo Tirone e del Ronchetto e il ritrovamento di due coppe della cultura di Thapsos. Sempre in contrada Ronchetto sono state ritrovate statuette fittili di argilla rossa dedicate alla dea Era, oggi al Museo Regionale “P. Orsi” di Siracusa, testimonianza della presenza romana nel sito. A circa 1 Km, in direzione Cava Grande, dopo il “Residence Avola Antica” è ubicata una necropoli bizantina, costituita da una serie di grotte scavate nella nuda roccia e loculi di forma rettangolare di varie profondità e ampiezze, risalenti al V-VI secolo d.C. Nell’Alto Medio Evo, nel sito del monte Aquilone con la costruzione del castello-fortezza, avente forma di un serpente alato inizia per la città di Avola o Abola un florido periodo. Il castello-fortezza si collocava in sommità del monte e già 1272 veniva enumerato nell’elenco dei castelli demaniali di Sicilia redatto dalla Curia Angioina. Esso per la sua posizione aveva una funzione strategica e di controllo su tutta la pianura sottostante e la costa della Sicilia sud orientale, da Siracusa a Capo Passero. Il castello fortificato da una doppia muraglia aveva torri, carceri, magazzini per il frumento, stalle e una cappella. Quattro i quartieri che si sviluppavano sotto il castello, denominati: Truxelli o Ronchetto, Marchi, Balzi e Suso. Nel 1361 Avola divenne baronia e feudo di Rolando d’Aragona e così ebbe inizio la dinastia dei Signori di Avola, nel 1542 fu elevata a marchesato. Oltre la castello numerosi erano gli edifici sacri: nel 1308 è documentata la “matrics ecclesia” dedicata a S. Nicolai di Mira in stile francese o gotico fiorito, dello stesso stile la chiesa di S. Venera. Nel 1400 sono documentate oltre alle due chiese citate, anche la chiesa di S. Giovanni B., S. Antonio Abate, S. Maria Annunzita con annesso un Monastero claustrale dell’ordine di S. Benedetto (Benedettine), S. Pietro, S. Maria dell’Itria o Odigitria, S. Caterina d’Alessandria, S. Leonardo. Due i conventi esistenti e appartenenti all’Ordine Francescano: Convento dei PP. Minori Osservanti o Zoccolanti, con annessa chiesa dedicata a Santa Maria di Gesù, ubicato in prossimità della Porta al Mare nel quartiere dei Trunxelli, nella quale chiesa era sepolto Carlo d’Aragona Signore di Avola; e il Convento dei Frati Minori Cappuccini, con annessa la chiesa dedicata alla S. Croce, ubicato nella parte nord della città fuori le mura o Porta ai Monti. Molti erano anche gli edifici civili, ma il catastrofico terremoto del 9 e 11 dicembre 1693 rase al suolo tutta la città distruggendola e mietendo numerose vittime tra la popolazione. Dopo quel fatidico evento i sopravvissuti, circa 5600, si trasferirono in località chiamata Chiusa dei Paghiari. Il territorio costiero di Avola è stato abitato dall’età neolitica; unica traccia e testimonianza sul litorale, in contrada Falari, è il Dolmen “Ciancio”, monumento preistorico formato da due grandi massi di supporto, ed una lastra di pietra per copertura. Nello stesso sito si trova una necropoli con numerosi ipogei paleocristiani scavati nella roccia del IV – V secolo d.C., aventi forma di croce latina, accessibili attraverso delle strette scalinate, e molte altre fossa. Sul lungomare di Avola, visitabile una villa ellenistico-romana del IV secolo d.C., con ambienti che si sviluppano intorno al peristilio; nella spiaggia antistante, sotto la fine sabbia è coperta una necropoli a fossa dello stesso periodo. In contrada Borgellusa, sono emerse una fornace di epoca repubblicana con annessa una necropoli e poco distante, in contrada Gebbia, durante i lavori per la realizzazione della circonvallazione, sono stati rinvenuti molti siti archeologici di vari periodi dal Bronzo al periodo Bizantino, ma il ritrovamento più importante è una messeria di età repubblicana. Dopo il terremoto del 1693, gli avolesi non volendo risalire sul monte Aquilone, preferirono stabilirsi in contrada Mutubè. Per concessione del principe Nicolò Pignatelli Aragona Cortes, Marchese di Avola e duca di Terranova, fu incaricato l’architetto e ingegnere Gesuita, Padre Angelo Italia, per tracciare la planimetria della nuova città e provvedere alla ricostruzione. La regolarità e la simmetria, che rendono unico il nuovo impianto di Avola, è stata oggetto di meraviglia e stupore da parte di molti viaggiatori e studiosi. Il disegno che progettò padre Italia, è caratterizzato da una rigida geometria chiusa, un esagono regolare che sviluppa un tema figurativo principale in un sistema a croce di strade terminanti in quattro piazze. All’interno dell’esagono, lungo le vie, ortogonali tra di loro si accede nei cortili, che caratterizzano maggiormente la singolarità dell’impianto urbanistico della città. I cortili all’interno dell’esagono avevano due funzioni: una sociale e l’altra difensiva; in essi si sviluppava la vita quotidiana e, avendo un solo accesso, diventavano in caso di incursioni piratesche una piccola fortezza.

 Fonte: da Avola Stradario (Giuseppe Giallongo Cravè)

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